Jul 17 2004

STEVE GRIMES discovers the truth about beautiful Exmoor

EVERY summer we drive down to Somerset - and within an hour of arriving we are waving it goodbye.

Like thousands of other holidaymakers heading for the coastal resorts of Devon and Cornwall, the 33-mile stretch of the M5 that runs through Somerset is about as much of the county we see.

So this year we decided to break the journey with a couple of nights on Exmoor, a glorious landscape of heather-clad moorland, rolling hillsides and fast-flowing rivers.

Most of Exmoor - which has been a national park for 50 years - is in Somerset and we chose to base ourselves slap bang in the middle in the picturesque village of Exford.

Nestling at the foot of a wooded valley is the Crown Hotel, our retreat while we explored the seaside villages of Dunster and Porlock.

As soon as you walk into the Crown you realise you are in hunting territory - and one of the conditions of the hotel says that dogs and horses are most welcome to bring their well-behaved owners with them!

The lounge at the hotel - a former coaching inn on the Barnstaple-Taunton run in the 17th Century - is stacked with copies of Horse And Hound.

The walls are covered with paintings of hunting scenes and the red deer antlers and heads of stags are certainly eye-catching if, like me, you are well over 6ft.

OWNER Hugo Jeune, who ran the popular thatched waterside inn the Rising Sun at Lynmouth for 20 years, regularly walks his two black Labradors through the hotel's water garden and is a font of knowledge on the area.

If you are into riding you can hire his international-sized dressage arena nearby and the hotel also owns a stretch of the River Lyn to fish for salmon, sea and brown trout.

After our four-hour drive from Kent we decided to take up his more laid-back option of jumping aboard the Exmoor Explorer, a vintage open-top, double-decker bus that takes you on a magnificent 30-mile circular tour.

The bus, which stops right outside the Crown, takes around two hours to travel between Exford, Porlock, Minehead, Dunster and then back to Exford.

The £5 adult fare (£3 for children or £12 for a family ticket) is great value and you can break your journey anywhere along the route and rejoin the service on the next trip.

Along the way we were treated to some spectacular views as we crossed the deep valleys of the Brendon Hills, travelled alongside the River Exe and came to the highlight of the trip - Porlock Hill.

With a one-in-four gradient, it's not for the faint-hearted but at least you can close your eyes as the bus zigzags down the three-mile descent.

The most interesting stop was Dunster. This medieval village has a high street full of quaint cottages - and lots of tea-rooms - before you head uphill to the castle. Now cared for by the National Trust, the castle dates back to Norman times and was home to the Luttrell family for more than 600 years.

There are more stunning views as you relax outside among the palm trees and water features.

Just a mile or so away is Minehead - home of Butlins. The holiday camp, unmissable with its gigantic white, circus-top roof, dominates the eastern end of the promenade.

If you haven't been to Minehead recently, it's all changed with more than £14million spent on a new sea defence scheme, including tons of fresh sand to improve the beach.

We preferred the quieter western end and, after driving past the harbour wall and fishing boats, we thought we had run out of places to stop for lunch. Then we spotted the Seacrest, a real find.

The cafe is run by a young brother and sister from Canada who prefer to serve healthier options to the chips, fudge and candy-floss sellers that feed the hordes by the seafront's amusement arcades. It's the last building on West Quay and is just yards from the famous South West Coast Path.

The cafe, with its raised terrace and uninterrupted views across the Bristol Channel to South Wales, proved a welcome sight for the walkers who had trekked the nine miles from Porlock Bay.

If you are into old trains - as well as old buses - then the West Somerset Railway is another must.

The steam train, which has its own station right on the seafront, weaves along the coast to Watchet and then heads inland on its 20-mile journey to the outskirts of Taunton.

There are also murder-mystery nights on board, plus jazz and sunset specials, so it's worth checking out www.west-somerset-railway.co.uk in advance if you really want to get an authentic taste of the golden age of steam.

INCIDENTALLY, the first of the nine stops on the train is Dunster, and the station is right by the beach, which has a large drive-on picnic area and mini-golf course.

After an eventful day, the Exmoor Explorer bus dropped us back at the Crown and we were spoiled for choice over where to have dinner.

Would we go for the award-winning cuisine in the candlelit restaurant or pick from the excellent array of dishes chalked up in the hotel bar?

I fancied trying the Exmoor ales in the bar - three superb brews on handpumps - so we tucked in with the locals, who all brought their dogs along as well.

The next morning it was farewell to Exmoor and off on another scenic drive south through the market town of Dulverton towards Tiverton and back to rejoin the motorway migration into Devon.

And after all these years our stopover break showed us there is a lot more that comes out of Somerset than cider and the M5.

Getting There:

FROM the north take junction 25 off the M5 following signs for Taunton. Pick up the A358 out of Taunton and then the B3224 via Wheddon Cross into Exford. The Crown Hotel is at the bottom of the hill on the right. Allow for a 45-minute drive from the M5, but it's well worth it as you cross the Brendon Hills. A double room with breakfast at the Crown is from £47 per person, per night. They also do Exmoor breaks, including dinner, from £65. Call 01643 831554 or visit www.crownhotelexmoor.co.uk

The Best...

views... From the open top of the Exmoor Explorer heritage bus for some of the best countryside in England. The two-hour, 30-mile trip costs £5 (£3 for children or £12 for a family ticket). Call 01823 251140 or visit www.heritagebus.co.uk

fun... A journey on the West Somerset Railway along 20 miles of stunning Somerset countryside with coastal views. For a 24-hour talking timetable call 01643 704996 or visit www.west-somerset-railway.co.uk

village... Dunster has something for everyone. A 900-year-old castle, medieval houses, countless tearooms and a nearby beach. A great place to stretch your legs after a long drive.